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“Downright thrilling; [Conefrey] really gives us a sense of what it must have been like, battling exhaustion and frigid temperatures to get to the top of the world…. A must-read.”
— Booklist
At 28,251 ft, K2 might be almost 800 ft shorter than Everest, but it’s a far harder climb. In this definitive account, Mick Conefrey grippingly describes the early attempts to reach the summit and provides a fascinating exploration of the first ascent’s complex legacy. From the drug-addicted occultist Aleister Crowley to Achille Compagnoni and Lindo Lacedelli, the Italian duo who finally made it to the summit, The Ghosts of K2 charts how a slew of great men became fixated on this legendary mountain.
Through exclusive interviews with surviving team members and their families, and unrivalled access to diaries and letters that have been archived around the world, Conefrey evokes the true atmosphere of the Savage Mountain and explores why it remains the ‘mountaineer’s mountain’, despite a history steeped in controversy and death. Wrought with tension, and populated by tragic heroes and eccentric dreamers, The Ghosts of K2 is a masterpiece of mountaineering literature.
- Sales Rank: #512698 in Books
- Published on: 2015-11-24
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.30" h x 1.30" w x 6.10" l, 1.37 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 336 pages
Most helpful customer reviews
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
Fascinating account of the attempts and failures to climb K2 and survive
By Kent Price
The author gives a fascinating account of the attempts to climb K2. The book is divided as follows: (Prologue) the mountain with no name; (1) the beast and the prince; (2) the Harvard boys; (3) a climbing party; (4) high ambition; (5) the fall out; (6) unfinished business; (7) teamwork; (8) man down; (9) the old road; (10) the flowers of Italy; (11) the spoils of victory; (12) the base lie?; (Epilogue) living up to your name?; (Acknowledgements); (Notes); (Bibliography); and (Images).
Written in 2015, this is an excellent overview of expeditions to K2 from 1901 through recent years. The difficulties of K2 (further north than Everest and thus colder weather) result in many fewer climbing attempts and higher fatality rates than on Everest. The book is very well written and will appeal to climbers and readers of adventure stories (myself). I highly recommend this book.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Lies by Conefrey!! I guess his conscience finally got the better of Lacedelli.
By Sloan2010
Lies and a pure work of fiction created by Mick Conefrey to sell some books, while pretending to be a factual recount of the 1st successful ascent of K2.
Walter Bonatti was a hero along with his Pakistani sherpa, named Mahdi. These two carried the oxygen tanks to what was supposed to be the final camp IX location, located at about 27,000 feet up K2. However, Campagnoni and Lacedelli had ascended roughly 100 meters above the agreed upon location for that final camp IX knowing that Bonatti and Mahdi would never be able to reach their hidden new location by nightfall. They also hid their new location by moving about 200 feet to the left of the agreed upon final ascent line above e the agreed upon camp IX location to ensure that Bonatti would not be able to locate them. They also repeatedly ignored calls from Bonatti that fateful evening asking them for assistance. They did this to ensure that Bonatti, the strongest climber of them all would not be the one to make the final ascent of K2.
Lacedelli himself admitted in 2004, that he and Campagnoni had intentionally hid their location that evening to prevent Bonatti and Mahdi from locating them. This would guarantee that Bonatti would not be part of the final ascent of K2 the next day. Yet, Conefrey perpetuates the decades of Campagnoni lies to the contrary.
By intentionally hiding themselves, Campagnoni and Lacedelli guaranteed that Bonatti and Mahdi would be "hung out to dry" and trapped without a tent or camp supplies that evening with temperatures dropping below -25 celsius. Mahdi ended up losing all ten of his toes from the extreme frostbite he suffered that evening. Campagnoni then had the audacity after the expedition was complete to tell further lies and claim that Bonatti had abandoned Mahdi and that Bonatti was responsible for Mahdi's frostbite and loss of his toes.
Campagnoni told 50+ years worth of lies that Bonatti had used some of the oxygen intended for he and Lacedelli that evening, and that Campagnoni had "supposedly" run out of oxygen before reaching the K2 summit the next day. Campagnoni claimed that Bonatti was carrying the oxygen tanks to the camp IX location that afternoon, and the oxygen masks as well, which permitted Bonatti to "supposedly" use some of the oxygen himself that evening. A PROVEN lie by Campagnoni!
Mahdi and the 2 other climbers, who assisted Bonatti with bringing the oxygen tanks to the missing camp IX that afternoon have testified that they and Bonatti were only carrying oxygen tanks, and no masks. Campagnoni and Lacedelli already had their masks higher up on the mountain. And now we now have actual photographic evidence uncovered by Robert Marshall of Campagnoni standing on the K2 summit breathing oxygen through his oxygen mask. Yet, Campagnoni previously lied and claimed he ran out of oxygen before reaching the K2 summit. That photo proves Campagnoni lied about running out of oxygen prior to making the K2 summit, and yet Conefrey continues to perpetuate those lies.
The truth is that the two heroes of that ascent along with a host of others were Walter Bonatti and the local Pakistani mountaineer, named Mahdi. They risked their lives to carry those oxygen tanks to the final camp IX, only to be betrayed by the actions of Campagnoni and Lacedelli.
Shameful and criminal on both the part of Campagnoni, and Lacedelli. They were both personally responsible for slandering Bonatti for decades, and for taking all ten of Mahdi's toes from him along with much of his remaining quality of life. At least, Lacedelli finally came clean in 2004 and admitted to the decades of lies that had been told against Bonatti. I guess his conscience finally got the better of him. This is stuff anyone can easily do an internet search on. Campagnoni went to his grave a criminal, a slanderer, and a liar, certainly no hero. And both the Italian and Pakistani governments are also culpable for perpetuating those decades of lies to "maintain their relationships" and create two false heroes in Campagnoni and Lacedelli.
And just as bad, now we have hacks like Mick Conefrey perpetuating the Campagnoni/Lacedelli lies as well.
Amazon, why are you selling this rubbish and not doing your own due diligence to call this writer of fiction and lies named Conefrey out for his lies???
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Not just the first effort - but all of them :)
By L. Anderson
A bit misleading, the book not only covers the first attempt, but covers all of them, fascinating accounts of the attempts to climb K2.
This is a good overview of expeditions to K2 from 1901 through recent years. The difficulties of K2 (further north than Everest and thus colder weather) result in many fewer climbing attempts and higher fatality rates than on Everest. Something very nicely brought out is the retrospective consideration (not done in the early climbing attempts) of the effects of altitude on the climbers. Some weird stuff/actions occurred that none of the climbers would consider at lower altitudes. Until the 50's, many climbers thought that the would "get used to" the oxygen deprivation of higher altitudes, that the longer they were "up there" the better it would be. The exact opposite of what we now know to be true.
Full disclosure: Oliver Eaton (Tony) Cromwell was my grandfather. I grew up in Europe in the 60's spending winters with him in Zermatt, and as a young officer commanding a border camp spent quite a bit of time with him in the 70's and early 80's when he moved to Interlaken before he and Georgia's death in the mid-80's. He willed me his personal notes and book collection.
The part o=n the 1939 climb is an excellent study in leadership or the lack thereof. The strength of the work is its focus on the personalities and the authors do a very nice job, presenting some interesting information re: Weissner, Durrance, Cromwell and the others members as well. After reading this, you would be well served if you read "Last Man on the Mountain".
The author appear to make a real effort to avoid biases. They do a very nice job of helping the reader understand the relative backgrounds of the tream members. In the attempt, four people died, one of which was Wolfe, the other three were Sherpa's, who died heroically trying to bring Wolfe down, for which role they were not trained, equipped or being paid to do. While there is plenty of blame to go around, Wolfe's death needs to be laid at Weissner's feet.
Something touched on but not really explored is that as the author noted, Cromwell - at least in terms of quantity (Weissner was undoubtedly more skilled) - had more experience than anyone except Weissner - there's at least one mountain named after him (Mt. Cromwell) in Canada. Cromwell was also mature (47-the rest were MUCH younger) and well-educated and again, as the author notes, discussed with Weissner his (Cromwell's) concern about prolonged exposure to high altitude for human health and performance - which is why Cromwell made it clear from the very beginning that he would be glad to join the K2 expedition - help lead the effort - and help fund the effort ($1,700 then was like $45,000 today) - but that he was not interested in going any higher than the base camp. Cromwell, with decades of experience, had a better perspective on maintaining health than the younger men - who had the approach that they would simply "gut thru" any discomfort - which is fine for an afternoon's climb but not so practical for weeks on end. Cromwell's personal observations re: prolonged exposure to high altitudes was not widely accepted until much later - and Weissner and the younger member simply paid it no attention.
Cromwell was a seasoned, experienced, mature mountaineer, who found that Weissner`s unwillingness to accept any team input other than money and physical labor (ie. Weissner refused to even appear to consider ANY advice Cromwell tried to give him, be it mountaineering, or the best approaches for leading Americans, and then tried to order him up K2 after promising him that he would ONLY be the base camp commander - health concerns be damned) - put the expedition at risk, with tragic consequences. As the authors note: the American's essentially mentally "checked out" with regard to Weissner - they were perfectly happy as long as he was anywhere but where they were.
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